Beginners’ Guides:
English Folk Costume

Abbots Bromley – Staffordshire

The Abbots Bromley Horn Dance is an iconic English folk tradition. The dancers perform carrying reindeer horns which are mounted on wooden heads and attached to a pole. The antlers/horns are very ancient and date back to the 11th century. They have been painted over the years, previously red, blue, and white but now they are brown and off-white. In the past the dancers wore their ordinary clothes with pink and white rosettes added to them, but in the 1880s special costumes were designed by Mrs Lowe the local vicar’s wife. This style of costume has now become traditional and when the costumes are up-dated they are made in this old style.

Jack in the Green – Nationwide

Jack in the Green is a person covered in a large cone shaped frame which is almost entirely covered in green foliage. These walking sculptures can now be seen at special Jack in the Green festivals across England. Modern costumes, usually consisting of a frame which rests upon the wearers shoulders, are based on descriptions and images of ‘Jacks’ from the 1700s and 1800s. Originally ‘Jacks’ were created by chimney sweeps as one of a number of characters, including a Lord and Lady, who would process through London on the first of May as a cadging activity. A number of places in England now have their own ‘Jack’, the most famous being Hastings in East Sussex.

Padstow Attendants – Cornwall
A key part of the Pastow ’Obby ’Oss celebrations are the attendants who follow the horse. They look after the crowd, play music, dance, and collect money. A key attendant, called the teaser, leads the ‘oss. There are two Padstow ‘osses one blue, and one red and the attendants either have decorations (sashes, hats, and ribbons) of blue or red over white clothing. Photos from a 100 years ago, when hat wearing was much more common and clothing more expensive, show less white clothing, and more people wearing hats decorated with flowers. The clothing of the contemporary attendants adds to the carnival atmosphere of this vibrant community event.

Wishford Oak Apple Day – Somerset

On Oak Apple Day (see Castleton Garland Ceremony) the residents of Great Wishford, Somerset, have a day celebrating their right to gather firewood. The day includes two special dances which are performed by four women of the village. This is said to be in memory of the four Wishford women who were punished for trespassing whilst collecting firewood in the 1800s. Since the 1900s the women have dressed in old fashioned rural costume. Today the women wear cotton sun-bonnets which are handed down from dancer to dancer, special thick aprons made out of rough hessian fabric, cream jackets, and long black skirts with an oak apple and oak leaves pinned to their jacket. Despite its charming name an oak apple is actually a small, white paperish hollow caused by wasps laying larvae within oak trees

Castleton Garland Ceremony – Derbyshire

The Castleton Garland Ceremony from Derbyshire is performed annually on Oak Apple Day (May 29). In 1661 this day became the focus for many customs, which were previously held on the 1st of May, as May 29th was created as a new holiday to celebrate the Restoration of the Monarchy. Once a large national day of celebration it is now only celebrated in a few places. In Castleton a King and Queen process through the town on large shire horses wearing fancy historical clothes. A large garland is then placed over the King which covers his torso and head. This garland is made of wickerwork and is entirely covered with flowers. Later, the flowered garland is hoisted to the top of the church tower. The costume of the King and Queen have changed over time, originally the Queen was played by a man, he had a shawl and a special bonnet but also trousers. The King used to wear a shirt covered in rosettes and ribbons, with a servant’s livery, or smart uniform coat which had belonged to a coachman. Like the Abbots Bromley horn dance the costumes appear to have been re-designed in the late 19th century.